As beauty legend has it, it was the mid-1970s, in the aftermath of the frenzied Haight-Ashbury love-ins of San Francisco, that a quiet, little cosmetic revolution was born. It was called “mineral makeup” products made of all natural, finely ground minerals from the earth, without any of the chemicals, dyes, and preservatives found in traditional makeup.

Mineral makeup comes in a variety of forms – and at prices ranging from less than $10 to more than $50 per product — undoubtedly the most popular in all price ranges are the loose powder foundations and blushes. These are light, finely ground loose minerals that are buffed into the skin using a wide, fluffy brush.

But does “natural,” “mineral,” and “from the earth” really equal better? WebMD discovered the answers and has a lot of qualifying factors — and some vastly differing opinions.

Mineral Makeup and Skin Health:
Like most cosmetic products, mineral makeup has its fans and its critics. Those who love it rave about the light, natural, long-lasting glow that simply can’t be duplicated by other types of makeup. Others, however, complain it’s drying, irritating, and accentuates wrinkles and adds years to your appearance. Some say the colors have an ashy undertone that is a particular problem for ethnic skin types.

But looks aside, many consumers also say they are initially drawn to try mineral makeup because of skin health claims – more specifically, that it’s pure formulations are safer and better for sensitive, even acne- or rosacea-prone skin.

But is it?

The main ingredients (minerals such as mica, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide), says Kaminsky, have been the basis of most makeup foundations for decades. And he says mineral makeup has no special health or beauty properties.

Many dermatologists report that because mineral makeup frequently eliminates classic “irritants” – like fragrances, binders, synthetic dyes, and preservatives — it is considered “purer” and can be kinder to the skin.

Mineral Makeup and Sun Protection:
Another big draw to mineral makeup are the claims of sun protection. With an average SPF rating of 15, at least one company, Bare Minerals, has the Skin Cancer Foundation seal of approval as a sunscreen. Jane Iredale, AfterGlow, and other mineral makeups claim similar protective effects, due mostly to the high content of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide — two ingredients commonly found in traditional sunscreen.

But does mineral makeup give you all the sun protection you need? Most experts say no.

Mineral Makeup: Not All Alike:
Since there is no set regulation for what constitutes a “mineral” makeup, any product containing minerals as a primary ingredient can be marketed as such — even if it contains a whole lot of other “less natural” ingredients.

That’s because within the brands that claim “pure mineral” formulations, there is still another category breakdown — those that contain an arguably “natural” mineral known as bismuth oxycholoride, and those that do not.

A pearlizing agent that gives mineral makeup that “candlelight glow,” bismuth oxychloride is a mineral, but it’s not found in the earth. Bismuth is a byproduct of lead and copper processing. Bismuth oxychloride is also frequently used to fill or “bulk up” or bind products, says Adams, and some say it comes with a heavy price.

To find out if there are any known toxic effects from ingredients in your makeup, go to Skin Deep at www.cosmeticsdatabase.com and enter a product name or ingredient.

Mineral Makeup: Buyer Beware:
One of the factors that makes mineral makeup so popular is the smooth, natural, long-lasting coverage — a feat that’s some companies accomplish by pulverizing or “micronizing” their minerals into microscopic or even nanoparticle size.

The bottom line: Even when beauty comes from the earth, it’s still a case of beauty buyer beware.

What brand of mineral makeup do you use and why. Let us know by posting your feedback in the comment box below.